Notes from the cellar

The cellar sits in the old crypt, at a steady twelve degrees. Noor buys mostly from families who farm a few hectares and make wine the way their grandparents did, with a little more care.

The zero-proof pairing is her other obsession. Ferments start three weeks before a menu launches. Some fail. The ones that survive are layered with teas, verjus and pressed fruit until they hold up against a duck jus.

Both pairings follow the same principle: the glass should make you want the next bite.