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THE ONYX

JournalPress3 March 20263 min

Two stars and a turntable

The 2026 guide gave us a second star. We celebrated the only way we know how.

Brigade lined up at the pass, b/w, flash

The call came on a Monday, when the restaurant is closed. Half the brigade was asleep. By eight that evening everyone was back in the chapel, and Ama had put on the record we play at the end of every service.

A second star recognises the whole room: the floor team who remember how a regular takes their coffee, the dishwashers who keep the copper bright, the producers who answer the phone at six in the morning.

“A second star recognises the whole room.”
Hands plating a course
Plating at the pass, black and white

Nothing about the menu changes. We will keep cooking the same way, and the needle will keep dropping after dessert.